As the Love & Death story is based on real people, what was your reference or inspiration when designing the look for the characters?
Lana Horochowski: Although the characters depicted have been inspired by real people or events, they have been fictionalized or altered to the extent that their identities are not easily identifiable or recognizable by the audience. This fictionalization allowed us to take creative liberties while still drawing inspiration from real-life stories or personalities. We didn’t have photos of all the characters involved in the scripts, so I pulled as much research as I could. I filled in the blanks with old family photos since my entire family is from Texas, and I had books of photos from that time.
Tricia Sawyer: We had some great reference photos of the real Candy. I tried to keep Lizzie’s [Elizabeth Olsen] makeup linear to hers; Candy wasn’t a huge makeup girl, she was more natural.
The story is set in the late 1970s and early 1980s, what details were most important in getting the look of the era right for the female characters?
LH: The most important detail was to accurately capture the makeup trends and styles that were popular during that time. Some key elements we had to consider included makeup colors and eyebrow styles. The 1970s and early1980s were characterized by bold and vibrant colors in makeup—bright eyeshadows, colorful lipsticks, glossy lips, and rosy blushes were commonly used. Thick black or dark eyeliner was a staple, as well as winged eyeliner. False eyelashes were used to achieve a dramatic look. The foundation tended to be matte, giving a smooth and flawless complexion as well as light contouring to define the cheekbones and jawline.
To accurately depict the makeup of that period, it was essential to research and study vintage makeup ads, fashion magazines, and films from the time. Paying attention to the details of makeup application and color choices helped achieve an authentic look for the characters in the story. Most importantly, keeping in mind that this was a small church town in Texas so it was necessary to use these techniques, but understand that these are regular people, behind the times that won’t be as fashionable as models in magazines.
How much of the character transformations were makeup vs prosthetic?
LH: We only used an FX team for the murder. It was such a large cast and an even larger background count so we needed a team of artists to transform people into the period. Every single person had to go through hair and makeup to create the silhouette, men as well since the facial hair at the time was so specific.
What were some of your key products for creating Elizabeth Olsen’s look as Candy?
TS: We always start with skincare, keeping skin consistent throughout a shoot is crucial. We are big fans of Skyn Iceland Hydro Cooling Firming Eye Gels, sometimes we put them on the lid as well as under the eye like a superhero mask to combat any morning puffiness. For her foundation, I used Pat McGrath, MAC Face and Body, and Amazing hydrating concealer under her eyes. I lined eyes with Chanel waterproof eye pencil in Santal, and coated lashes with Serge Lutens black mascara. For eyebrows, I used Anastasia blonde Dipbrow pomade and Brow Wiz pencil. Blush was Pat McGrath Rose Decadence and Nude Venus. Lizzie had many changes and we shot in some very remote locations in and around Austin. Many of our changes had to be done on set so we had to bring almost everything with us! Always in my bag were MAC Blot, Mally Beauty Poreless Face Defender, Lumify eye drops, Elizabeth Arden Eight-Hour Cream, and Future’s Lemuria Phytomarine Body Cream. It’s the absolute BEST! I also really appreciated a good palette more than ever. I used Makeup by Mario neutral palette, Viseart bridal palette, and a Graftobian lip palette.
What was used for Elizabeth Olsen’s bruises?
TS: When we photographed her bruises after the murder, I used AFX Aqua Gels Colorwash in Clear, Indigo, Maroon, Yellow, and Leather. I can’t say enough great things about this product. They do not transfer or come off unless you use the remover. We did a shower scene and they did not budge!
What was one of the most memorable parts of this job?
LH: Tricia called me to Department Head since she was going to be Elizabeth Olsen’s personal. It was a no-brainer to go to Austin, where I went to college, with one of my best friends and have the opportunity to work together for eight months!
TS: Getting to do this project with Lana made it such a great experience! We are best of friends and it made this job even
more special for me.
Words Shannon Levy
Photos Courtesy of Max
