How did you come to work on Emily In Paris?
Odile Fourquin: A friend of mine happened to be Sylvie’s key makeup artist, and proposed my name to the production as the season one supervisor was off for season two. I was available and I think my enthusiasm did a lot, as well as my resume, as I’ve had a long career by now, particularly with international productions.
Aurélie Payen: The season one hair and makeup supervisor contacted me to be Lily Collins’ personal makeup artist because she knew of my experience. I started my career 20 years ago in film and have been working for The Wall Group with celebrities for some years now. It was a good fit for Lily and me. We enjoy working together.
Whose makeup did you personally do on the project?
OF: In addition to my work as supervisor, I did Camille Razat (Camille), Kate Walsh (Madeline), Lucien Laviscount (Alfie), Jeremy O’ Harris (Gregory), very often office guys Julien and Luc, William Abadie (Antoine). I also designed and supervised the looks for the Versailles show models.
AP: Lily Collins as Emily.
You nailed the American sensibility versus the French sensibility from a makeup design. How did you build this energy into the design?
OF: I integrated it by doing less makeup on French actresses, except sometimes some night looks: no contouring, or very light, no fake lashes, no very colored lipsticks, no strong eyeliner, not too much foundation. For instance, Sylvie is always made up in the same way with individual lashes to make her eyes look bigger, but as if it were her own lashes; the famous effortless look. Camille, who is a real fashion Parisian girl, got some special night looks, though she sometimes can stay quite nude. Of course, I also keep in mind what suits them best.
AP: Emily’s makeup is still natural glam with a little more of French style. I further spotlight the subtle French art of revealing and enhancing the glow of natural beauty. Emily’s makeup is always perfectly made but faithful to the habits of French women. She sometimes replaces her emblematic matte lipstick with a moisturizing lip balm.
Where did you look for inspiration when designing the look for the female characters?
OF: Fashion shows, makeup artist’s Instagrams, fashion magazines, and built up the rest from my imagination, as I’m happy enough to have a very wide one.
AP: For Emily, I was inspired by legendary actresses like Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Brigitte Bardot, icons of cinema, fashion, and beauty. They have contributed to the influence of France abroad thanks to their talent, of course, but also to their personality, extremely inspiring, like Lily Collins in the role of Emily Cooper.
Emily seems to evolve her look from when she first arrives in Paris to the end of the first season. Was that a design decision or did we imagine it?
AP: Travellng is a learning experience and teaches you confidence, independence, and freedom. Throughout her journey in Paris, Emily boosts her self-confidence and her problem-solving skills. In season two, she feels more comfortable in her new environment and adapts to changes. She is experiencing a full French culture and beauty codes immersion.
How did you work with wardrobe and hair during design?
OF: I received the photos of the outfits, sometimes a very short time in advance. For Emily and Mindy, I shared with [hairstylist] Mike Desir, Aurelie, and Carole Nicolas. Each of us made proposals, submitted them, and waited for the validation of the showrunners. For Camille, as she is a fan of makeup and hair, we talked with her hairdresser, sometimes even the day of shooting, once we’d seen her outfit.
AP: Emily’s outfits are more sophisticated in season two with very strong and colorful pieces. Her looks are more representative of American standards, as her well-groomed hairstyle, so I wanted to keep a very light makeup to balance the quintessential “French girl” beauty.
What was key to creating Emily’s look for season two?
AP: Keeping Lily’s skin perfect was my priority. I started by misting a few drops of serum on Lily’s face before mixing a hydrating gel with a few drops of facial oil and thoroughly massaging the cocktail into her skin. I prepped her lips with lip balm, smoothed hydrating patches under her eyes, and then got to work on her makeup. I used a very light foundation to get a luminous complexion. Eyes are softer, deeper, gentler. Lips are still matte, with deep brown shades in the daytime and those evening reds that are characteristic of the Parisian aesthetic.
What were some must have products on set?
OF: I used the fantastic Augustinus Bader Cream and Cleansing Balm, Chanel Hydra Beauty Serum, hand cream, eye makeup remover and the entire Sublimage range. And La Fervance Eclat Extraordinaire is a 100% natural cream that works miracles on dry skin! For makeup, Chanel Les Beiges foundations and mascaras, By Terry Hyaluronic powder, Charlotte Tilbury gel eyebrow, Chanel and Charlotte Tilbury lipsticks, Laura Mercier and Absolution concealers. I can’t do without my palettes, Dermacolor, and Maqpro correctors.
Words Shannon Levy
Photos Stephanie Branchu, Carole Bethuel/Netflix
